KATHMANDU: The 2025 spring climbing season on Mount Everest officially began after a team of seven Sherpas fixed ropes to the summit at 5 p.m. on Friday, opening the route for other climbers.
The rope-fixing team, deployed by the 8K Expedition Company, included Ashok Lama, Tshering Pemba Sherpa, Pem Norbu Sherpa, Tashi Sherpa, Karma Gyalzen Sherpa, Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa, and Pastenji Sherpa.
Expedition leader Lakpa Sherpa, speaking from base camp, said the team faced significant challenges this year. “Thick snow made rope-fixing extremely difficult. In the Khumbu Icefall, climbing even the ladders became risky due to loose rocks and black stones,” he explained.
According to Leeladhar Awasthi, Director at the Department of Tourism, the successful rope-fixing marks the official start of this year’s Everest expedition.
“With the route now open, other climbers will begin their summit attempts depending on weather conditions,” he said, adding that the first summit window is expected to be favorable and successful.
Sherpas had already fixed ropes to the summits of Lhotse and Ama Dablam on Thursday, also under 8K Expedition.
However, only seven out of 16 rope-fixing Sherpas managed to reach Everest’s summit due to challenging conditions, particularly thick snow—a situation some Sherpas attributed to the impact of climate change.
The company reported that it took 14 days to build the route from Camp II to Camp IV due to persistent bad weather. Once completed, the Sherpa team reached the summit from Camp IV in just two days.
“The route is now ready, and the weather is clear. Hundreds of climbers are preparing for the summit,” said Lakpa Sherpa, who is also the managing director of 8K Expedition.
The optimal ‘summit window’ is expected from May 11 to 15, before snowfall forecasted for May 16 and 17. A second window is predicted between May 19 and 24. “A large number of ascents are expected in the first window,” Lakpa added.
Sherpa workers are currently stationed at Camps III and IV, managing oxygen supplies and equipment. Many climbers have already moved from base camp to higher camps, using the favorable weather for acclimatization and final preparations.
Several notable climbers are attempting records this season. Legendary mountaineer Kami Rita Sherpa is aiming to break his own world record with a 31st summit.
Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa hopes to set a new record by climbing Everest four times within 20 days. Similarly, Sanu Sherpa, who has already climbed all 14 peaks above 8,000 meters twice, plans to break his own record by completing a third round.
Among this year’s climbers is also India’s oldest Everest aspirant, preparing for a historic ascent.
8K Expedition alone has 55 climbers on Everest and Lhotse this season. With favorable weather and the route open, the mountain is set for a busy and record-setting spring.
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