Thrifting has gained momentum as a response to fast fashion, a term so frequently discussed today in relation to the climate crisis. The phrase “fast fashion” was first used by the New York Times in the 1990s to describe a retail approach where new designs were produced every 15 days.
Similar to fast food, fast fashion is quickly manufactured, cheap, and often low in quality. Numerous academic studies have highlighted the hidden environmental and ethical costs of clothing production, including excessive water use for cotton farming, the dumping of untreated dyes into water sources, and poor working conditions with inadequate wages for laborers (Bick et al,. 2018).
A 2019 United Nations report ranked fast fashion as the second most polluting industry globally.
According to the World Economic Forum, the fashion industry accounts for 10% of global carbon emissions – more than the combined emissions from all international flights and maritime shipping (2020).
Additionally, as reported by the United Nations Environment Programme (UN Environment, 2018), producing a single pair of jeans requires approximately 3,781 litres of water, covering everything from cotton cultivation to the final product reaching stores.
This process results in approximately 33.4 kilograms of carbon emissions, comparable to driving 111 kilometers on the road.
One of the best ways to combat overconsumption is to shop your own wardrobe first. Before buying new (or second-hand) clothing, consider mending, up-cycling, or re-styling what you already own.
If that is the cost of producing a single pair of jeans, imagine the environmental cost for the mass production of clothing across all big fast fashion brands.
When we look at the causes of global climate crisis, most of them attributed to the richest countries in the world including emissions imported via consumption. The math makes sense: the more we consume, the more CO2 we emit.
And a tale as old as time, the biggest contributors to climate change will often be the least affected by its consequences.
Wealthier nations are primarily responsible for emissions, while developing nations – those that contribute the least – bear the consequences first.
Who’s to Blame?
Shein, a Chinese-owned retail giant, along with major European brands such as Zara and H&M, are among the biggest drivers of fast fashion. Their ability to sell clothing at low prices is largely due to outsourcing cheap labor, often under exploitative and unsafe working conditions.
The tragic 2013 Rana Plaza collapse in Dhaka, Bangladesh, which killed 1,132 garment workers and injured over 2,500 more, is a grim example.
The factory produced clothing for brands such as JCPenney, Children’s Place, and Walmart.
This disaster highlighted the negligence of major Western corporations and governments that source labor from low-wage countries without enforcing ethical working conditions.
The Rise of Thrifting
Despite the grim reality of fast fashion, thrifting offers a more sustainable and affordable alternative. Buying second-hand reduces textile waste and slows down the demand for mass production.
However, thrifting’s popularity has grown among privileged groups, even though it has long been a necessity to lower-income communities.
For many, thrift stores are not a trend but a means of accessing affordable clothing and other essential items.
The Downside: Overconsumption in Thrifting
Although thrifting is a more ethical alternative, at times it acts as a temporary band-aid solution to a larger issue – overconsumption.
The habits instilled by fast fashion – impulse buying, excessive consumption, and chasing short-lived trends – are seen to be replicated in the second-hand market. Many people justify excessive thrift shopping simple because it is cheaper. But, purchasing second-hand clothing in large quantities still feeds into a consumerist mindset.
Being an ethical consumer is not just about where you shop but how you shop. The fast fashion industry has encouraged the culture of excess, and even second-hand shopping can become wasteful when people continue to accumulate unnecessary shopping.
Despite the fashion industry’s promotion of the “reduce, recycle” mantra, the best solution to manage waste it to simply buy less.
Greenwashing in Fashion
A 2023 Greenpeace report exposed the misleading sustainability claims of major fashion brands. Many companies engage in greenwashing, a deceptive practice where they market their products as environmentally friendly without making substantial changes to their production process.
The report analyzed sustainability claims from 14 brands, including H&M Conscious, Mango Committed, Primark Cares, Decathlon Eco-design, Zara Join Life, and Tesco F&F Made Faithfully.
These brands were found guilty of misleading consumers by failing to slow production rates, using unrecyclable fabric blends like polycotton, lacking third-party sustainability verifications, and falsely claiming circularity through the use of recycled polyester from plastic bottles.
Fast fashion, by its very nature, cannot be sustainable. For these companies to genuinely embrace sustainability, they would need to shift to a circular production model – utilizing eco-friendly resources and ethical manufacturing practices. However, most brands refuse to even disclose their production volumes, let alone reduce them.
The Real Path to Sustainability
True sustainability requires more than just shopping second-hand. It involves changing consumption habits entirely. Many people believe donating or swapping out their wardrobe for thrifted clothing is an eco-friendly act.
Yet, this mentality still supports consumerism rather than reducing waste. Why? Because constantly donating clothes instead of curbing shopping habits does not challenge the cycle of overconsumption – instead, it perpetuates it.
To make evident impact, individuals must learn to strike a balance between enjoying thrift shopping and being mindful of their purchases. Sustainable fashion should align with principles of equity and conscious consumption, not just affordability.
Ultimately, consumers should aim to shop with greater intentionality, resisting the urge to follow fleeting trends and embrace a more mindful approach (at your capacity). The next time you decide to “shop ‘till you drop”, do so with adequate due diligence.
One of the best ways to combat overconsumption is to shop your own wardrobe first. Before buying new (or second-hand) clothing, consider mending, up-cycling, or re-styling what you already own.
Although it may not offer the same thrill as finding a hidden gem in a thrift store, it is a sound and attainable approach to begin with.
Another effective way to support ethical shopping is to purchase from small, community-run thrift stores instead of corporate resale chains.
These local businesses often prioritize ethical sourcing, ensuring that profits support local causes rather than large corporations and provide support for the growing local economy.
Shopping small offers unique, high-quality pieces while reinforcing those sustainable economic practices.
Intentional Shopping Matters
Although fast fashion remains dominant due to its affordability and accessibility, consumers can still make more responsible choices.
It is a privilege to have the option to buy from sustainable brands, as many eco-friendly alternatives are costly. But, while no one can be a perfectly ethical consumer under capitalism, some choices are better than others.
Ultimately, consumers should aim to shop with greater intentionality, resisting the urge to follow fleeting trends and embrace a more mindful approach (at your capacity). The next time you decide to “shop ‘till you drop”, do so with adequate due diligence.
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