KATHMANDU: Renowned Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja, popularly known as Nimsdai, has died in an avalanche on Pakistan’s Broad Peak. He was 43.
Purja was among an expedition team attempting to summit the 8,047-metre peak in Pakistan-administered Gilgit-Baltistan when the avalanche struck. Ten other climbers were also part of the expedition.
Born in a small village in Myagdi district at an altitude of around 1,600 metres, Purja came from a Gurkha family. Following his family’s military tradition, he joined the British Army’s Gurkha Regiment in 2003 at the age of 18 and was later selected for the United Kingdom Special Forces in 2009.
During his 16 years of military service, Purja developed a passion for mountaineering. He made his first ascent in 2012 by climbing the 6,119-metre Lobuche Peak. In 2018, he resigned from the military to pursue mountaineering full-time.
The same year, he was awarded the Member of the Order of the British Empire (MBE) by Queen Elizabeth II in recognition of his achievements.
Purja rose to global prominence in 2019 after completing his Project Possible 14/7, climbing all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks in a record six months and six days. The feat brought him international acclaim and led to the launch of his own expedition company and outdoor apparel brand.
Although Norwegian climber Kristin Harila surpassed the record in 2023 by completing the challenge in three months and one day, Purja’s achievement remained one of the most celebrated milestones in modern mountaineering.
His remarkable journey was featured in the popular Netflix documentary 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible. Purja also sparked global debate in May 2019 after sharing a widely circulated photograph showing a long queue of climbers near the summit of Mount Everest, drawing attention to overcrowding and safety concerns on the world’s highest peak.
Alongside his achievements, Purja also faced controversy. In 2024, The New York Times reported allegations of sexual misconduct made against him by two women. Purja denied the allegations through his legal representatives.
Purja’s death marks the loss of one of Nepal’s most accomplished and internationally recognised mountaineers, whose legacy transformed the country’s standing in the global climbing community.
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