LAMJUNG: A narrow road carved out of sheer rock faces, with towering cliffs above and a deep gorge below where the Marsyangdi River snakes like a thin blue ribbon — this is the Besisahar-Chame road, one of the most perilous routes in Nepal.
Originally built by hand using hammers, chisels, and shovels — before the use of dozers and excavators — this road hugs the rugged terrain of the Himalayas, connecting Besisahar in Lamjung to Chame in Manang along the banks of the Marsyangdi River.
Despite its danger, hundreds of passengers travel this route daily, putting their lives at risk. The narrow, unpaved road is hazardous under normal conditions and has become even more treacherous due to frequent landslides.
Vehicles traveling between Lamjung and Manang are often forced to navigate unstable ground, prompting travelers to make the journey with a sense of dread, often “chanting the name of God” for safety.
The Besisahar-Chame road is the only road link connecting Manang — a remote Himalayan district — to the rest of the country via Lamjung. With no alternative routes available, travelers are compelled to brave landslide-prone slopes, towering cliffs, tight hairpin turns, and extremely narrow sections.
The 65-kilometer stretch from Besisahar to Chame passes through Khudi, Bhulbhule, Syange, Jagat, Chyamche, Tal, and Timang, before reaching Chame, the district headquarters of Manang.
Many parts of the road are cut directly into rock cliffs. According to local resident Som Bahadur Gurung, the risk is heightened by steep gradients, sharp bends, and uneven surfaces.
Jeep driver Somraj Magarati shared his concern: “Landslides happen frequently in various places. The road conditions are deteriorating, and there’s always a fear of sudden disaster.” Another driver, Ram Bahadur Tamang, echoed this fear: “If you go off the road, you fall straight into the Marsyangdi. There’s no chance of survival.”
Travelers report that during the journey, rocks sometimes fall while vehicles are in motion. The danger becomes significantly worse during the monsoon season, with increased landslides and slippery roads.
According to Nabin Bista, Information Officer at the Dumre-Besisahar-Chame Road Planning Office, the route remains risky due to poor construction quality and a lack of sufficient budget.
This fiscal year, Rs 360 million was allocated to the road project. For the upcoming fiscal year, the government has proposed an initial budget of Rs 400 million.
Residents of Manang are increasingly anxious as landslides regularly block the road, sometimes for days. In such cases, air transport via helicopters becomes the only option for reaching or leaving the district.
The road was originally constructed as part of the government’s plan to connect remote areas to the national road network. Work began in 2051 BS under the Road Division Office, Damauli, and was later handed over to the Nepali Army in 2057 BS due to the road’s extreme difficulty.
Despite life-threatening conditions during construction — with some fatalities recorded — the army completed the road, particularly tackling the dangerous Bandar Ladla cliff section.
The road was handed over to the Road Division Office in 2069 BS by the army task force based in Besisahar, under the leadership of engineers Bharat Shrestha and Indribar Gurung.
Although the road fulfilled a long-standing dream for the people of Manang, their hopes have been dampened by the government’s failure to upgrade and maintain it.
Locals in both Manang and Lamjung, along with domestic and international travelers, are calling for urgent improvements. All share the same concern — the road must be made safer, and the risk of accidents drastically reduced.
Currently, it takes around six hours to traverse the Besisahar-Chame road under normal conditions. During the rainy season, however, landslides can halt travel entirely, leaving passengers stranded and fearful.
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