Route opened for autumn climb to Dhaulagiri summit

MYAGDI: A route has been prepared to reach the peak of Dhaulagiri mountain, the world’s seventh highest at 8,167 meters. Dhaulagiri mountain lies within Dhaulagiri Rural Municipality-4 in Myagdi district.

Four Sherpas who reached the mountain with a climbing team this autumn have established the route and reached the summit. Mingma Sherpa, founder of the climbing company Seven Summit Treks, informed that the Sherpa team fixed ropes from the base camp to the summit on Saturday.

“A joint team of Sherpas from the Four Peaks Expedition and Seven Summit Treks has opened the route to Dhaulagiri’s peak,” he said. “This makes Dhaulagiri accessible to all mountaineers this season.”

The team includes Tashi Sherpa and Lhakpa Temba Sherpa from Makalu Rural Municipality-1, Sankhuwasabha, along with Phurba Kusang Sherpa from Ward No. 2 of the same municipality, and Pasang Norbu Sherpa. They are the first group this autumn to prepare the path, fix ropes, and successfully reach the summit.

After the Sherpas fix ropes in the snow and prepare the route, climbers ascend to the summit with their assistance. The Sherpas say that if the weather remains favorable and no other issues arise, climbing teams can reach the summit within a day or two.

According to the Department of Tourism, seven women and 17 men from three groups have obtained permits to climb Dhaulagiri this autumn. Permit fees collected amount to Rs. 5.71 million.

Climbers, Sherpas, guides, and support staff have already reached the base camp. This season, the climbing team arrived at base camp via Yakkharka from Marpha in Mustang.

Due to damage and the difficult terrain on the trekking route through Mudibagar in Dhaulagiri Rural Municipality, the team used the Mustang route instead.

Last spring, 15 climbers from two groups paid Rs. 3,691,260 in permit fees. In autumn 2024, five Russian climbers from a group of 14 died in an avalanche after obtaining permits to climb.

The rapidly changing weather remains a significant challenge for climbers on Dhaulagiri. Compared to other peaks, climbing Dhaulagiri is considered particularly risky and adventurous.