Seven expeditions granted permits to climb Mt Everest

KATHMANDU: The Government of Nepal has begun issuing mountaineering permits for the spring climbing season, allowing expeditions to attempt Mt Everest, the world’s highest peak.

According to the Department of Tourism, permits have been issued to seven expedition teams so far, comprising 17 women and 60 men. A total of 198 climbers from Nepal and other countries have received permission to climb Mt Everest (Sagarmatha) this season.

Director of the Department, Liladhar Awasthi, said that permits have also been granted for 29 other peaks in addition to Everest. These include Annapurna I, Annapurna V, Lhotse, and Makalu.

Specifically, 66 climbers from six teams have received permits to climb Annapurna I, while eight climbers from one team will attempt Annapurna V. Additionally, 15 climbers from each of two separate groups have been cleared to climb Makalu.

Meanwhile, preparations on Everest are underway. The route up to Camp II is currently being established. However, progress has been delayed due to high winds in the Sagarmatha region over the past two days. Winds have been recorded at 35 km/h, and icefall conditions remain dangerous.

Icefall doctors — specialist climbers responsible for opening and maintaining the route through the Khumbu Icefall — are waiting for the weather to improve. So far, they have installed four ladders and 12 hooks along the route, with 1,100 meters of the path already secured.

A 10-member team deployed by the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) is currently working from Base Camp toward Camp II. Once the route to Camp II is ready, the rope-fixing team, led by Ashok Lama, will continue securing the path to the summit.

The Mountaineering Expedition Operators’ Association has assigned the rope-fixing responsibility for Everest this season to 8K Expedition, a well-known company in high-altitude climbing logistics.

Spring is considered the prime season for mountaineering in Nepal, especially for Everest. Each year, it attracts a large number of international climbers seeking to summit the iconic peak.